Saturday, November 29, 2014

Wanaka for Thanksgiving

After our rainy experience on the west coast with the glaciers, we ventured inland and headed to a town called Wanaka. As we made our way, we began to have great views of the snow-capped alps, and for the last hour or so, we were driving along a couple of scenic lakes (Hawea and Wanaka).

Upon arriving in Wanaka, we decided it was time for coffee and sweet treats, so we found our way to Cafe Gusto where one can sit on the patio and look out at the lake and surrounding mountains. After some caffeination and wi-fi-eration, we checked into our holiday park for the evening, and then came back to the small downtown area to check out happy hour at a local pub that features beers made just outside Wanaka.

With more cooperative weather, the next morning, we set our for a walk along the lakefront, then back to Cafe Gusto for some lunch. The barista from the day before recognized us and welcomed us back. Yes, we became regulars in one day. In the afternoon, we set out for Bannockburn, a wine area about 30 minutes from Wanaka featuring at least 30 wineries, with a number of them offering Cellar Doors. We tasted wine at Mount Difficulty, Felton Road, Carrick, and Bald Hills. At the last winery we visited, we were greeted by a friendly man who told us he lived in southern California before we were born (true for one of us). After tasting one wine, he let his sweet dog, Bella, out to greet us. She was part beagle, part blue heeler, and was very loving. Alan enjoyed our time there the most, even though it was the simplest "cellar door" as our host was plain spoken and made a point of saying that one should enjoy wine, and if not, you might as well spit it out.





On our final full day in Wanaka, we got up and hit the road for the Mount Aspiring National Park, which featured a five kilometer hike to the foot of the Rob Roy Glacier. Lonely Planet should give this hike more credit. Granted it was a more beautiful day outside, but we enjoyed this much more than Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. While the drive is kind of rough with gravel roads and some small stream crossings, the overall experience is great. The walk is well-maintained, only mildly challenging, and the payoff is way better. When you get there, you are staring the glacier in the face, as the pictures below attest to. This might end up on the ultimate highlight reel for both of us.










Our last afternoon featured a final trip to Cafe Gusto (different woman behind the counter this time) and happy hour beverages at Urban Grind. Our next stop will be Milford Sound for a kayaking tour.

Friday, November 28, 2014

The West Coast

Of course the weather the next day was lovely. We found the Cape Foulwind Walkway outside of Westport, and walked the 4 km out to a seal colony.



This guy was sunning himself something fierce.


On the drive south to Greymouth, we stopped to see the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki National Park. Apparently no one is sure why the rocks here were formed in layers like this, but it makes for a cool view.






Once in Greymouth, we headed to the Monteith Brewing Company. This is one of the more prevalent beers here, sort of like Sam Adams in the USA. Just for variety, Gracyn is pictured with the tasting tray instead of Alan.




On Wednesday, November 26, we finished our drive down the West Coast. One of our stops was in Hopitika, where we checked out the Hopitika Gorge. Usually the water is more of a bright turquose color from the glacier melt, but it was cloudy for us from all the recent rain.


Next we visited Franz Josef Glacier, which is very famous. Despite the driving rain, many people made the walk with us to see the ice. I was struck by how far the glacier has receded since 2008. Still, it is one of the few so close to sea level.




The next day we also made the walk to Fox Glacier. The path was roped off before we got very close, due to heavy rainfall. The West Coast is the wettest part of New Zealand. Of course, that ice has to come from somewhere. Still, it's a bit demoralizing to be rained on and stopped from doing fun things.



For such popular tourist attractions, we were not impressed. Luckily enough, we would find ourselves hiking to a much more beautiful glacier from the town of Wanaka. We'll get to that.

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Arthur's Pass

Alan and I noticed that Monday, November 24, promised to be a particularly lovely day before 4 days of rain. So we shuffled our plans and took a day trip from Greymouth to Arthur's Pass. This is one of the few roads through the Southern Alps connecting the east and west coasts.

We chose to hike the Temple Basin trail, climbing 500 meters to a (currently deserted) ski village. I thought it was quite strenuous, but the view was spectacular.






Since we had more time left in the afternoon, we also chose to hike the Otira Valley trail, which took us high up along a stream.



Even the return drive was lovely, and I was nerding out about the various engineering feats.



Tuesday, November 25, 2014

The Heaphy: You Shall Not Pass

Alan and I had wanted to walk all of the Heaphy Track, but it crosses the Kahurangi National Park one way. There are shuttle companies, or companies that will move your vehicle for you, but they are  pricey. By road, from one end of the Track to the other is almost 500 km. So we decided to drive to the west coast portion of the Track, then hike one day to the last hut, and hike out the next. We arrived at Kohaihai Friday evening (November 21) and this was the view from the van.


We knew the weather for our "hike in" day did not look good, and we waited out the rain in the morning. We started walking around 1PM, with 16 km ahead of us. We passed 3 sets of people on their way out, all of whom looked a bit beat up. They warned us that the path had washed out in some areas, but we could go around by the beach. We were certainly going to be cautious.

Some places that would normally have been creeks through the trail were deep, fast-flowing streams. Some we were able to go through, and some forced us down to the beach.



Then we ran into a wall of rock and debris. We thought that this must be the afore mentioned washout.



About 2 hours in, we ran into a river. Judging by the erosion around the edges, it had only just carved so deep a gully through the path. We looked upstream for a way across, then down towards the beach. We must have waited 30 minutes to see if the tide would make a difference, but the roughness of the ocean did not seem to diminish as low tide approached.


We turned around and walked back. For all that, our walk along the wild west coast was certainly beautiful.






We were fortunate enough to make it south to Westport that night, as the rain had flooded many a field and the rivers were high.